Napa & Monterey

August 4, 2021

August 03, 2021

#travel #california

We planned a short vacation to Napa Valley and Monterey this July (11-16) in order to escape the Texas heat. Things did not work out as planned. Texas was experiencing a cooler than normal July because the high pressure system that normally dominates our weather in the summer moved west and was hovering over, you guessed it, Northern California.

Napa was hot reaching or coming close to 90 every day. On top of that the most severe drought in many a year had blanketed most of the western U.S. Not only were conditions for forest fires extremely high but most of California was under severe water restrictions. Although on the surface Napa is the premier wine producing valley in the USA under the surface they are hurting. Most of the 2020 vintage was dumped down the drain because the 2020 wildfires in he area induced a Smokey taste in the wine produced that year from local grapes. This year the drought is affecting the grapes.

We did have a great time and hope the valley recovers quickly. Such a treasure; It would be a tragedy if it were destroyed.

Monterey, unlike Napa, was seemingly unaffected by either the drought or the heat wave. The highest the thermometer reached while we were there was 61.

Mt St. Helena

Food

I did not list all the establishments we visited, only the ones I recommend:

  • The Fish Market – Several locations in the Bay area
  • Calistoga Inn and Brewery – great brews and eclectic menu
  • Calistoga Roastery – Coffee shop in aging storefront on Main Street Calistoga
  • Sarafornia Cafe – Calistoga – Good place for breakfast although Gwen will not return because of food restrictions
  • Sams Social Club – Calistoga – In a newer resort in Calistoga. Great breakfast and lunch.
  • The Market – St. Helena – Best meal we had in Napa – Dined on sidewalk a foot from the owner’s Yukon
  • The Bench at Pebble Beach – Lunch on the patio overlooking the 18th green at Pebble Beach
  • Enzo Ristorante Italiano – Carmel – super small but outstanding Italian fare and

Activities

Some activities we enjoyed:

Napa

  • Petrified Forest
  • Wine tasing
  • Redwood Trail
  • Walking around Calistoga

Petrified Forest

Monterey

  • 17 mile drive around Pebble Beach
  • Walking along the Monterey waterfront and watching seals
  • Drive down highway 1 to Big Sur

Hotels

  • Napa – Bergson in Calistoga – thumbs up
  • Monterey – Marriott in Monterey – thumbs up

Duration

  • 5 nights – Sunday, July 11 to Friday, July 16 2021
  • Sunday – fly to SFO; drive to Napa
  • Monday – at Napa
  • Tuesday – at Napa
  • Wednesday – Drive to Monterey
  • Thursday – Monterey
  • Friday – drive to SFO ; flight home

Flights

  • 07/11 – DFW to SFO Flight 2798 8:35AM to 10:19AM
  • 07/16 – SFO to DFW Flight 2802 3:22PM to 9:08PM

Bixby Bridge

TL;DR

Jul 11, 2021 at 11:30 AM: On flight Rower One San Francisco. We left DFW about an hour late at 9:30AM. Storms rolled through DFW last night which caused havoc with flight schedules.

Jul 11, 2021 at 4:09 PM: We’ve arrived at The Bergson in Calistoga, our home for the next three nights. After picking up the rental we ate lunch at The Fish Market in San Mateo. Then we drove up here. I’m ready to rest for a bit.

Later in the evening we strolled around town and had dinner at the Callisotga Inn and Brewery. Food was excellent. We sat in the bar so we could watch the NBA finals. Bad choice, the game was not close.

Jul 12, 2021 at 10:39 AM: Breakfast this morning was coffee and bagels at the Calistoga Roastery. I would be a regular if I lived here.

Visited the Petrified Forest this morning. It’s just a short drive from Calistoga. It’s private and therefore they charge an admission – $11.00 for seniors. The walk through the forest is around a mile and a very easy walk. We enjoyed our visit there.

Jul 12, 2021 at 7:57 PM:

Lunch: Palisades in Calistoga was not what I expected although it was good. After walking in you order from a counter sort of like Rosa’s. Forgetting what I expected. If you are in your early 20s and on a fairly limited budget it’s an excellent choice for a good wholesome meal for a reasonable price. If I were not married to Gwen Palisades would be my expensive, splurge mask on the trip.

In the afternoon we drove down the Silverado Trail to Yountville and explored the towns back to Calistoga by automobile.

Dinner was Brasswood Bar + Kitchen. The meal was delicious but the service was poor. They sat us in an area served by the bartender. About the time we sat down a large group or groups ordered a number of complicated to make drinks. 20 minutes later I was asking the hostess to move us when he finished and took our order. The rest of the evening including the food was excellent.

Jul 13, 2021 at 5:41 PM: Breakfast this morning at Sarafornia Cafe. Mine was good but something did not agree with Gwen’s stomach.

Then we hiked the Redwood Trail in the local state park. Much longer walk than yesterday. Most of that area had a forest fire a year ago. Most of the redwoods had black trunks quite high but were still okay. They have extra thick bark that protects them from forest fires. However many of the younger trees had died. The ground cover had started to grow back but the drought has killed most of the ground cover off and the area is ripe for another forest fire.

Lunched at Sam’s Social Club in the Indian Springs Resort on the east end of town. Gwen liked the tea so much she wants to go back for breakfast.

Took a scenic drive this afternoon and bought a book at the local bookstore, Copperfield Books.

We dined at The Market in St. Helena. It’s a farm to table restaurant whatever that means. In any case it was very good. The best we’ve had here in Napa.

Jul 14, 2021 at 3:46 PM: Breakfast this morning was back at Sam’s because Gwen loved their iced tea.

After that we checked out of the hotel and drove to the Monterey Marriott with a side trip back at The Fish Market in San Mateo for lunch. It’s 59 in Monterey at 4PM.

Checked in the Monterey Marriott. Much color here – 55 degrees. Dinner at Domenico’s on the wharf. Good but I’d try somewhere else next time. Seafood in Monterey should be brilliant.

Jul 15, 2021 at 9:37 AM: Breakfast at the hotel. Very good. Of course they have a buffet but we ordered off the menu.

57 this morning. Heat wave for Monterey.

Drove the 17 Mile Drive on a partly foggy day. Still a wonderful experience.

Then lunch at The Bench at the Lodge at Pebble Beach overlooking the 18th green.

After lunch we wandered aimlessly around Carmel for awhile before driving to Big Sur on Highway 1.

Before dinner we walked along the Monterey Waterfront. We dined at Enzo Ristorante Italiano. Superb!!!

Jul 16, 2021 at 4:00PM:

We had a restless night at the Marriott before breakfast at McDonalds and Starbucks. First I walked 1/2 mile to the McDonalds for Gwen’s Iced Tea and an orange juice. Took them back to the hotel and then a block to Starbucks for coffee and bagels.

Before leaving Monterey I called The Fish Market for lunch reservations but they were booked solid. Oh woe is me; I was counting on another great meal at the best seafood restaurant in the Cosmos.

Checked out of the Marriott and drove to San Mateo for lunch at Mendocino Farms for lunch before heading to SFO for the flight home.

Pebble Beach Coast

California Dreaming on a Winter’s Day

April 21, 2014

California vacation Winter 2014

Summary

We recently traveled to Northern California for a short vacation (February 27 through March 5).  While their we visited Lake Tahoe, Napa and Sonoma Valleys, and San Francisco.  

Lake Tahoe on a Cold Winter's Day

Lake Tahoe on a Cold Winter’s Day

Lesson learned on this trip: It does not pay to worry.  Having worked in the Bay area for several years I remember the passes over the Sierra’s were often closed in the Winter or only open to vehicles with chains. In the days before our trip I worried the passes would not be open because of inclement weather.  In fact the passes were closed several days the week before the trip only heightening my angst. To top it off the passes were closed the morning of our departure due to a snow storm.  Thus we boarded the plane wondering if the passes would be open when we landed. 

Well, I was worried about the wrong problem.  Our 9:30 AM flight was not air born until 4:30PM CST!  We boarded the plane some 4 hours late because of a mechanical problem.  After we boarded they discovered another problem. by the time that problem was rectified the flight crew had reached their on-duty limit and disembarked the plane.  We had to wait for another flight crew.  We finally landed in San Francisco 6PM west coast time.

After picking up the rental car we drove into San Francisco, across the Bay Bridge, through Oakland and its suburbs,  and over the Sierras to Lake Tahoe.  Fortunately the Sierra pass on U.S. 50 was open that evening and we arrived at our destination shortly after midnight.

Lake Tahoe

Lake Tahoe Condo Friday Morning

Lake Tahoe Condo Friday Morning

We awoke the next morning to heavy snow over which the locals were elated. Turns out they were in the midst of a two year drought and this was the first good snow fall for them this season. No snow is not healthy for a ski resort.

We don’t ski but we had a great time at Tahoe anyway:

  • Watched the snow fall from the comfort of our Condo or a great wine bar
  • Drove around the lake on a Sunny day with snow piled high everywhere
  • Strolled downtown South Lake Tahoe watching the people
  • Spent one afternoon sipping wine at the Apres Wine Company . Unfortunately their web site says they are going out of business on April 20th.
  • Ate several delicious breakfasts at Red Hut Cafe  and the Driftwood Cafe 

Santa Rosa

Napa Oyster Bar

Napa Oyster Bar

Santa Rosa was our next stop after Lake Tahoe. We used it as a hub to tour Napa and Sonoma.

At Merryvale, Clos Pegase,  and Titus  we enjoyed private tours thanks to Chris Morrow (our son-in-law).

  • There is really no comparison between sitting in a 20,000 gallon wine barrel at Merryvale tasting reserves with just your hostess as opposed to standing at a bar with a dozen or so other people slurping up the economy vintages.
  • Or touring the caves 200 feet under the surface of Clos Pegase where they age the wine.
  • Or sitting in the Titus farm house at a 100 year old dining room table next to a wood burring furnace.

We also stopped at two of Gwen’s favorites: Milot, Peju  just to order wine to be shipped home.

Unfortunately for me, the Titus lady told Gwen about an olive oil shop in the Village of Napa named Lucero. Of course we had to stop there and another shipment home ensued.  The bad news is she really loved their olive oil.  The good news is they ship free when the orders are $100 or more.

The Farmstead at Long Meadow Ranch is adjacent to Merryvale tasting room is a great lunch spot.  Its also very crowded.  We arrived at 11:30 AM and they were booked solid for the entire day.  However we looked so disappointed the hostess hinted that setting at the bar was on a first come first serve. So we ambled over to the bar and were sitting down ordering lunch 10 minutes later.  I had some combination arugula, roasted brussels sprouts, goat cheese salad that was great. They grow their own veggies right on the premises.  While eating we watched a man harvesting greens in the garden between the restaurant and the highway.

On our second day in the area we lunched at Redd Wood in Yountville. Recommend it also.

The Russian River Brewing Company is in downtown (not sure) Santa Rosa.  We decided to try it out on Sunday night thinking Sunday would be a slow night for a combination microbrewery/pizza joint.  How wrong we were.  The wait was 45 minutes to sit down.  However the beer tasted great and the pizza was delicious.

Sebastopol and Bodega Bay

We left Santa Rosa bound for San Francisco and traveled the scenic route through Sebastopol, Bodega Bay on the coast and down Highway 1 across the Golden Gate Bridge into San Francisco. 

Florence street in Sebastopol is a must see.  Strange yard art in every front lawn

Florence Street Yard Art

Florence Street Yard Art

We arrived at Bodega Bay just before lunch.  It’s a picturesque village on along the banks of the bay.  We ate lunch at  “The Tides Wharf Restaurant and Bar” to a stunning view of the bay. Of course its seafood and very good or I would not recommend it. 

After lunch we headed down California Highway 1 expecting a very scenic drive down the coast.  I was disappointed.  Gwen would have been but she slept most of the way.  We did not see the coast except for one bay until we reached Stinson Beach just north of Muir woods.  Next time I’ll take the straight route to the city.

Coast at Bodega Bay

Coast at Bodega Bay

San Francisco

Chocolate Yummy!

Chocolate Yummy!

We arrived in San Francisco mid-afternoon and proceeded to our hotel, the Argonaut Hotel at the end of Fisherman’s Wharf.  During past visits to the city we’ve stayed at budget hotels or our Wyndham time share. They were all good but the Argonaut was great! Its a luxury hotel with free wifi, a perk only other nerds would understand. It’s at the end of Fisherman’s Wharf district a block from the cable car terminus and Ghirardelli’s Marketplace.

We mostly just walked Fisherman’s Wharf and surrounding neighborhoods because we had one afternoon and evening in the city and then flew out the next day.  

Dinner was at Fog Harbor Fish House at Pier 39.  Are there any bad restaurants in San Francisco? If so, I’ve never found one.  Of course we tend to study the restaurant reviews before trying out a restaurant. Maybe I should try a restaurant that gets bad reviews. 

The next morning we bade a fond farewell to the land of milk and honey after a great breakfast at the Argonaut restaurant and headed home.  The good news was the plane was on time flying home!

The coast at Stinson Beach Overlook

The coast at Stinson Beach Overlook

 

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